Lifestyle – Veness Travel Media

Say Hello to the Fabulous Apéro Bar!

While there’s no Brit Guide for 2025 (scroll back to January’s entry for those sad details), we can use the blog to update a few things that we think are worth highlighting this year, and here’s something for the repeat-visitor factor…

Orlando is all about amazing experiences. From the theme parks to the supermarkets, everything is larger than life and twice as exciting. So it makes sense that anything new is going to grab our attention and demand we check it out. Things like the new Apéro Bar at the glorious Conrad Hotel just outside Walt Disney World.

*You know you’ve arr5ived somewhere special when you drive up to the swish Conrad Orlando hotel, which is part of the mammoth Evermore Resort, with its Crystal Lagoon*

It’s no real surprise that a fancy hotel will have a just-as-fancy feature bar or restaurant, whether it’s a classic Disney hotel restaurant like Citricos at the Grand Floridian or the fabulous steaks of A Land Remembered restaurant at the Rosen Shingle Creek Resort on Universal Boulevard (still the best steaks we’ve had in Orlando).

Funnily enough, the bars at some of these hotels have tended to be something of the Cinderella of their food and beverage line-up, with far less attention paid to an elegant pre or post-dinner beverage experience than the dinner itself. That has changed a bit in recent years with the advent of eye-catching venues like Universal’s rooftop Bar 17 Bistro and the fantastic AC Sky Bar at the AC Hotel in downtown Orlando, but it is still a bit unusual for hotels to lavish their full decorative might on the lobby bar, or similar.

*The rooftop vibe at Universal Orlando’s magnificent Bar 17 Bistro*

Applause for Apéro

The Apéro Bar absolutely smashes that failing into little tiny pieces. Not only does it provide the kind of chic, eye-catching venue that wouldn’t be out of place in a James Bond film, it goes the extra mile in providing drinks and food items that are as good as the setting itself, which evokes a blissful Italian Riviera ambiance by day and by night.

We’re no strangers to the occasional cocktail or two; it’s an Orlando speciality that goes back almost to the opening of the theme parks themselves. But Apéro goes much further in offering an all-round icon of high style for that special evening out. Even the glassware is a distinct cut above the usual martini and rocks glasses that we’re used to seeing.

To start with, it occupies an ideal location within the Conrad, on the lower level looking out over the spectacular crystal lagoon at the heart of the resort, a seeming ocean of brilliant blue that disappears into the distance. (For the record, the lagoon covers a whopping eight acres and is the brainchild of a South American company that uses proprietary technology to create super-size pools. This one is big enough to accommodate paddle-boarders!).

*The fabulous view from the Apero Bar’s lagoon-view location*

The airy space that Apéro occupies is also designed to invoke an al fresco style while keeping everyone super-cool in its cosy air-conditioned confines. The venue features warm woods and gold accents, notably in the unusual lamps that range across the marbled bar top and the moody ceiling lighting that casts a particularly golden glow over proceedings. The rectangular bar has seating on all four sides, with a lowered section at one end that encourages casual dining.

What’s on the menu?

Ah yes, the menu. It probably comes as no revelation to find excellent cuisine at a five-star hotel, but the Apéro menu is carefully curated to provide some of the best tastes – in both drinks and dishes – that the hotel offers, without going to the formality of the main dining room. We find holidays are more conducive to the laid-back vibe of upscale bar food, and we especially enjoy small-plate bar dining when accompanied by delectable drinks.

*A setting fitting for 007 himself – the super-chic bar-lounge of the Conrad Orlando’s Apero Bar*

And the hotel’s chefs really know how to turn on the style when it comes to some magnificent mixology and Mediterranean-inspired dishes that hit all the right notes for flavour without overdoing the bulk.

We’ll start with the drinks (as you do!), and freely admit that we were treated to some real highlights. The cocktails are divided into five sections for Negroni (four notable variations), Sbagliati (or unusual mixes of Negroni that would be considered “happy accidents” by most mixologists), Spritz (all with sparkling elements of some kind), Americani (a quartet of classics) and Spirit-Free. The Svegliato is a delicious coffee negroni, while the Banana Splitz is just outright fun! There is also a notable Italian wine selection that is sure to appeal to connoisseurs.

*Ready for a cocktail? The Apero Bar boasts fab Italian-influenced concoctions*, *like their Birra Americano – a mix of Nardini Bitter, Mancino Vermouth Chinato, Alchermes, Cardamon and Lager Foam*

There are just 11 food menu items, and three desserts, but they run the gamut of relatively simple salads, pizza, chicken wings and a signature burger (albeit all with a stylish touch) to fab burrata, arancini, Italian tuna poke and a superb cheese charcuterie board. We found the chicken wings, burrata and tuna poke absolutely delicious, while nearby fellow diners sang the praises of the arancini and charcuterie.

For dessert, we were tempted by both the Bread Pudding and Tahitian Vanilla Crème Brulee, but our barman, Francisco, insisted we try the Rocher, and boy was he ever right! This outrageously decadent over-sized ball of chocolate Frangelico semifreddo, salted caramel, chocolate cake, chocolate fudge sauce and macadamia nuts is simply our new favourite dessert anywhere in Orlando, and there’s a fair bit of competition for that.

*The highlight dessert – that outrageously delicious, chocolate sensation Rocher*

The Deets

Apéro Bar is open from 2pm to midnight Monday-Thursday and 1pm to midnight Friday to Sunday, with food served from 2.30pm to midnight every day. There is only valet parking at the hotel, but the rate is reduced to $10 for guests dining at Apéro.

In summary, this is far and away one of the most elegant – and downright tasty – bars we have sampled in Florida, or anywhere else for that matter. It has masses of style, and the tastes to match. And, for that special occasion or anniversary celebration, it takes some beating.

The Month 11 Travel Map

As keen-eyed blog readers will know, we have just hit the 11 month mark in our grand “A Year On The Road” RV trek across the US. After Louisiana, we arrived in coastal Mississippi, our 23rd state in this epic voyage.

*The story so far – 11 months on the road (NB: The pin-points are not our only stopping points – there are more than 60 of those so far!)*

Since our last monthly update, we have covered another 181 miles – a totally sedate travel distance at this stage of our journey (especially when we covered more than 2,200 in the first month!).

In the last month we have moved from Baton Rouge, Louisiana, to Biloxi, Mississippi, and our traveling has been a lot more focused on the areas close by, rather than trying to cover vast distances quickly. Even including the last two months, we have only gone a total of 672 miles in our trusty Winnebago, Indefatigable (or Fati for short).

*The last two full months of our journey, from Port Aransas in Texas all the way along the Gulf Coast to Biloxi via Louisiana*

Mind you, we have still covered some territory in our trusty tow car, Nippy, putting an additional 2,534 miles on our little Ford Fiesta (and 3,991 in the past two months), which shows that we’ve completely changed the balance of our touring – going shorter distances in Fati but doing more exploration in Nippy.

Now, with just a month left of our travels (but still more than 550 miles from home), it definitely feels like the end of our grand adventure is firmly in sight, which is very hard to contemplate after such a prolonged – and intense – period of traveling.

In total, we have come 9,225 miles in Fati since leaving home, and another 24,604 in Nippy, for a grand total of 33,829 around this amazing country. Eat your heart out, Hardest Geezer!

What We Learned During Our Seventh Month On The Road

Today marks seven months since we locked the door to our house in Florida and set off for a year-long adventure in an RV. Here’s what we learned during the past month:

Time spent in the bathroom is sacred time, at home or in an RV. But if you’re really just sitting there playing Wordscape on the phone for forty minutes, you deserve the scorn you get when you’re found out.

Simon now knows the bathroom isn’t the right place to play Wordscape.

Get an electric skillet with a cover, and get it before you even set off on your trip. What strange and wonderful wizardry that allows you make an entire meal in one appliance! Gone are your days of flipping one burger or one pancake in the Instant Pot set to Saute. Life has meaning again!

You’ll never run out of conversation when you travel. The only time we’re quiet when we’re touring is when we’re burned out from so much talking. Some of the most compelling conversations we’ve had have come from seeing places – usually very small towns or areas where housing is spread far apart – that make us feel our privilege in ways we never did before. Not financial privilege, specifically, but the privilege of opportunity. And we wonder, are the people happy and content? Do they love their freedom and their solitude? Is this their desired life? Or has opportunity been denied to them? We come at it with our life-experience bias, and talk our way around to wider possibilities.

Visiting the desert during dry season is disorienting, and it’s hard to get used to seeing rivers and creeks with no water in them. As Mark Twain said, “Until I came to New Mexico I never realized how much beauty water adds to a river.”

Remember back in the early months, when you struggled to keep the fridge cold? Yeah, well, it’s winter now, and your fridge has become a freezer.

Literally (and we do mean literally) every restaurant in Hatch, New Mexico closes at 3 p.m. Plan accordingly or you’ll be eating “Mexican food” from the Village Market grocery store deli.

The Green Chili Stew from Village Market’s deli is pretty good!

Arizona and New Mexico have more mountains than we expected, and some of them are whoppers. Check your preconceptions at the border when you enter a new state. Surprises await!

We knew the desert gets cold at night, but really? 21F? That’s not cold, that’s Arctic! Unplug the water hose from spigot; drain water lines; wear a shirt, pants, and socks to bed; and add your robe to the five layers of blankets you already have on the bed. Oh, and your coffee or tea the next morning will be cold within three minutes. Welcome to winter.

Walmarts in New Mexico have loads of Mexican candy right before Christmas. Taste-testing results? Mixed.

With so much mountain driving behind us, Simon now has a quiet confidence while driving Fati, without relaxing his guard or taking safety for granted. Susan can sit in the passenger seat without gripping the arm rests for dear life. As of right now, this single minute, assuming nothing, travel is an absolute pleasure.

Posole (Mexican pork and hominy stew) is a gift from God. Eat it and know you are loved!

The Town Too Tough To Die

Monte Vista RV resort in Mesa had been so fantastic we could hardly wait for our visit to another resort within the Thousand Trails membership program once we arrived in Tucson. We’d spend two weeks venturing out to Tombstone, Saguaro National Park, Mount Lemmon, and Old Tucson, and devote an evening (finally!) to Arizona’s spectacular Dark Sky stargazing.

The resort is loaded with activities and conveniences, from pickleball and Amazon delivery and every type of class imaginable, plus the disquietingly-named Fat Willy’s grill. First night’s dinner, sorted!

After settling in at our site, we strolled across the street to Willy’s and stood in the restaurant for nearly 20 minutes while no one took the slightest bit of notice. There appeared to be two servers, no host or hostess, and a whole lot of chaos, so we returned to Fati and made spaghetti and meatballs instead. Easy at home with a full-sized stove, it becomes an hour-long process when you have to cook the meatballs in the Instant Pot, then take them out, boil water in the Instant Pot, cook the spaghetti, drain it, and throw it all back into the Instant Pot to heat it up again with the sauce. Moving day is complicated, and all that fuss adds up.

*The command center that turns out unbelievable meals!*

The next day was Susan’s birthday, so with next to nothing in the cupboards or fridge, Simon assembled two BelVita cookies into a “cake,” and topped them with a gummy shark. Happy birthday!

*BelVita cake with gummy shark frosting.*

With the promise of a super yummy dinner from a nice restaurant later that evening, we set off for Tombstone. We’d been there once before (twice, for Simon), but today would be different. Because today was Vigilante Day!

*Some of that dust we mentioned in our *What We Learned During Our Sixth Month On The Road* blog.*

*A little show happens each day recreating the gunfight at the O.K. Corral, near that small red sign. The real gunfight happened at the back of the building.*

A little vigilante-inspired street skit was just about to commence when we arrived, and we scored a front-row view with Ruthie tucked between us. We’re not sure what the story was supposed to be, but as soon as the gunshots began Ruthie became seriously unnerved, and we knew it was time to move on.

*The skit started with the National Anthem*

*Stuff is happening, but we’re not sure what.*

We strolled down the boardwalk, looked in a few shops, stopped every ten steps or so for people to pet Ruthie, and marveled at how much Tombstoners seem to love dogs. She was definitely the star of the walkways, and we heard quite a few stories from locals who own or owned Labs, the “sweetest dogs on the planet.”

Our sweet dog is slowing down. A lot. But the Good Enough Mine Trolley welcomed her on a pet-friendly 40-minute tour, which would give her a rest and us a great overview of the town and its history.

On the way to the boarding location she sniffed out a mouse and took an interest in the horses, then we embarked on what turned out to be a private tour with just us and our driver, George.

*“That’s the tiniest puppy I’ve ever seen.”*

Last time we were in Tombstone we didn’t make it beyond the main street, but this time we learned about the settlement’s two fires (which earned it the title “the town too tough to die”), its mining culture, its law and lawlessness, the uneasy relationship with the nearby Apache, and “two hundred ladies of negotiable affection” (in reality, mainly poor girls with no other options) who plied their trade in brothels on the opposite end of Allen Street to where the infamous gunfight at the O.K. Corral went down.

*The back side of the O.K. Corral. This is where the gunfight took place.*

The Bird Cage Theater is where many of Tombstone’s working women worked, at least some of the time. At other times, they worked in tiny “cribs” earning cowboys’ and miners’ cash in a manner deemed less moral than dancers’ revenue stream.

*Today’s Tombstone as seen from up on a hill, with the Good Enough Mine (yes, it’s real name) under the ground between the town and the hill.*

The tour was far more insightful and far more comprehensive than the mock gunfights in the main tourist district, and we appreciated discovering Tombstone’s history beyond shoot-‘em-ups. George has a website, Tombstone Silver, which has lots of great stories you may enjoy reading.

*We’re not really sure what the deal is with this, but we admire the creativity.*

It was an hour’s drive back to Fati after a long day, and we were ready for that special birthday dinner. I’ll condense the hour spent searching online to find a decent restaurant that was A) closer than 30 minutes away and 2) open, and simply say there wasn’t one. But Simon saved the day. We’d go to the grocery store and grab some soup and bread, then celebrate some other evening, when we were out touring near real restaurants.

While I was heating up the soup in the (say it with me…) Instant Pot, he slipped away into the night and returned with a birthday card, a Moon Pie, and some chocolate ice cream, all purchased at the resort’s tiny convenience store. And honestly? It made my day. He’s a keeper, this one!

*“Cleo” is Simon’s name for me. Long, lovely story, perhaps for another time.*

What We Learned During Our Sixth Month On The Road

Today marks six months since we locked the door to our house in Florida and set off for a year-long adventure in an RV. Here’s what we learned during the past month:

Know your limitations. No matter how much you want to camp overnight in the middle of the desert at Quartzsite, when the ground temperature is 107 and you don’t have the ability to run at least one air conditioner (never mind your fridge) it’s time to re-think things. The fact there’s no one else out there and the locals are complaining about the heat are hints, too. Find a way to get the “flavor” of the experience and book that night in a campground with hookups.

Know the difference between a true limitation and fear.

When you can’t change the situation, change the inner dialogue. Yeah, yeah, we’ve all heard that, but the worst that can happen if you give it a try is that you’ll be right where you were before you tried. Start with “You can do this! You’re awesome, and you’re going to feel fantastic about yourself when you get through it! Go you!” and add to it as needed. Be your own giddy cheerleader.

Have a dear friend who texts you and says, “YOU CAN DO HARD THINGS!” That reminder is priceless. (Thank you, Katie!)

You’re going to see a lot of signs in the Southwest that read, “Watch For Rattlesnakes.” It will occur to you at some point that you don’t actually know how to watch for rattlesnakes.

Sedona, Arizona will get straight to the heart of whatever you’re struggling with. Don’t believe in spiritualism or an afterlife or any of that crap? Too bad. Sedona, Arizona has news for you, and even though it might take months or years of sitting with what it’s telling you, Sedona is going to tell you. Do believe in all that crap? You’ll get there quicker.

There is so much more history in the American West than we ever imagined, especially in Arizona. It’s astonishing to discover places like Tuzigoot and Casa Grande, which had vibrant, thriving communities more than a thousand years ago. It’s so much more than just “cowboys and Indians.”

If you clean up the dust in the morning, you won’t have to dust again until noon, and again before dinner, and once more before bedtime, and when you get up to pee at night, and it’s like that every single day, because there is so much more dust out West than we ever thought possible.

Your understanding of “be flexible” will change. At first, it meant you might drive further on any given day than you thought you would, or you’d have dinner out rather than cooking in, or you’d have to figure out how to stop that annoying whistling sound through the window when you move from one campground to the next. Now, it’s a philosophy for life. Combined with “forget about blame and focus only on a solution,” it’s pretty powerful.

Wave at everyone when you’re taking a stroll around the campground, and when one of them comes knocking on your door and asks you over for drinks, go. Oh, the happy evenings sharing travel stories! It’ll make leaving the campground very, very hard when it’s time to move on, and there will be tears, but those memories from the trip will be among your best.

When you hit that half-way mark in your Year on the Road, it’ll feel like you’ve been away from home forever, and also that it’s all gone so fast. On to the next six months!

Mesa Like A Local

We’re like that scene from Monty Python’s The Life of Brian, in which John Cleese’s character, Reg, peevishly asks the members of the People’s Front of Judea what the Romans ever did for them (Answer: medicine, irrigation, health, roads, cheese, education, baths, Circus Maximus, and peace). We kept adding to our long list of things we wanted to discover on this year-long journey, and this time we’re diving into our desire to experience some areas like a local.

We’re also far behind on our blogs, although quite a bit of our time in Mesa was spent just poodling around, sorting out a new mattress, taking Fati in for an oil change and other basic services, and visiting with friends old and new.

To kick off “living like a local,” we took advantage of the excellent dining options nearby – feeling unbelievably spoiled by the sheer variety of restaurants – with a visit to Queen Creek Olive Mill, a farm-to-table agritourism spot with olive trees, a lovely outdoor café, shop, and informative tour.

*Olive Mill is the kind of place that reminds you there is simple elegance in the world.*

Susan had the Queen Creek Chopped salad, Simon had the Kalamata salami and cheese sandwich, and we split a side of warmed olives in garlic and rosemary, and it was all so luscious we came back a week later and ordered the same entrees.

*The chopped salad is dressed with the farm’s own luscious Lemon Olive Oil.*

*Simon only got through half his sandwich the first time we visited, but powered through and ate the whole thing the second time.*

*Oh my Lord God Sweet Baby Jesus! These are so delicious!*

We were surprised to find out Susan’s second cousin lives not far from Mesa, so we met up with her and her husband twice during our stay, reliving family memories, looking at family photos, and enjoying their company. Heidi has a letter Susan’s mom (Kathy) wrote to Heidi’s mom in celebration of a milestone birthday, and tears flowed while reading it, hearing Kathy’s “voice” again. What joy, what grief, and what gratitude for Heidi sharing that letter!

With Halloween practically knocking on the door, we spent two evenings taking in the local festivals. First, the Vetuchio Farms Fall Festival, as wonderfully homespun and nostalgic as it gets.

With pony rides, a petting farm, a giant slide, fairground rides, a tractor-pulled train ride, and a corn maze, it takes you right back to happy childhood memories when times were simpler and kids still played outdoors.

*Adorable little cow train. The line to ride was LONG.*

*Ruthie took the lead in the corn maze, and she summoned all her super powers to get us back out!*

*The real locals got into the spirit of the night.*

We had a big lunch that day, so we didn’t try any of the food. Instead, here’s a photo of a hapless pedestrian who tried to cross any road in Montana or Wyoming, where speed limits are just vague suggestions.

The next night we went to the Schnepf Farms Pumpkin & Chili Festival, where the pig races were high on our must-see list. Bigger and flashier than Vetuchio Farms, there was a lot more to do, but with less pull of the nostalgic. We’re pretty sure the same families we saw the night before were there, and we could understand why they’d want to do both.

We had time to watch some of the dog agility show before the pig races started, and while Ruthie assured us she has no interest whatsoever in that much exercise, it would turn out to be a real highlight for us.

The pig races? Well, they were cute, but short. Five kids were chosen for each race, and they stood along the railing in front of a color that was assigned to each pig. The kid whose pig won the race was awarded a strap-on pig nose. Hilarious for some, humiliating for others, mainly depending on their age. We’ll just leave it there, because it was all in good fun.

We split a plate of succotash (which, to us, was more like grilled vegetables) and a bowl of chili, and the chili was so good we forgot to take a photo of it before we gobbled it down. Ruthie approved, too, when we let her lick the bowl.

On Halloween night we drove through a nearby neighborhood to see the decorations and the trick-or-treaters. It was the right decision, and made us feel less like we’re so far away from home. Susan especially is trying not to think too much about Thanksgiving and Christmas, the first time she will have been away from Young Son, ever, over the holidays.

*We saw a lot of giant Jack Skellingtons*

But the experience that made us feel most like we were living like locals were the nights when we crossed the road between Fati and the next row of rigs and spent time around Rocky and Ronda’s campfire, sharing stories, eating popcorn, having a barbeque, and feeling like we were part of a community.

Those of you who know our backs have been in agony for the last few months due to our Sleep Number bed whose air bladders never inflated, leaving us sleeping in deep canyons, will be glad to know we finally have a new mattress, after much trying.

We’d been sleeping on a thick foam pad for a few weeks while waiting for our new mattress to be made and delivered, and when it was delivered to some unknown location rather than the mattress store in Mesa, we had to wait another week for a second one to be made and delivered to our new location in Goodyear. Long story short, we slept well on our new mattress for the first time last night. Yay!

Our time in Mesa was the most social time we’ve had so far, and it was very, very hard to leave. Perhaps a season-long visit is in our future?

What We Learned During Our Fifth Month On The Road

Today marks five months since we locked the door to our house in Florida and set off for a year-long adventure in an RV. Here’s what we learned during the past month:

Simon loves driving through mountain passes in Fati. Susan does not love that. Following behind in the car while he hoots and hollers and is pumped full of adrenalin works for both of us. Praying “Keep him safe,” over and over, out loud, in the car, is much better than having Susan constantly say, “Please be careful. Watch that edge. Slow down. Do you think you should downshift? There’s a big hill coming up. Are you good? I think there’s a downward slope around this bend…” and on and on and on…. Split up if you need to, to save everyone’s sanity.

Ninety-nine percent of the time, the coolest room in the rig is the bathroom. You might be tempted to keep the dog in there on super-hot days, since he or she is wearing a fur coat all the time, but this idea is both stupid and not at all practical. Think it if you must, but don’t do it. No one will end up happy.

Having seen about a billion mountains and rocky outcroppings, you’re now able to immediately identify A) What kind of rock any given mountain is made of and B) How it was made. Aztec Sandstone? Easy. Area that was once an ancient sea? Childs play! Debris field from an exploding volcano back when dinosaurs were a thing? No problem at all, with bonus points for identifying the volcano itself, and any cinder cones it produced. You rock, you self-taught geologist, you!

Don’t choose a white or cream-colored throw rug for use in your rig. I don’t care if it’s the old one you had in your house and would have thrown away if you didn’t put it in your RV. You’ll spend all of your time looking at a filthy rug, starting 20 minutes after you freshly launder it. Get a black one or a brown one, because that’s what color it’s going to be anyway.

The American Southwest may be best known as cowboy country, but it’s the dust that leaves a lasting impression on you. Any allergies you had back at home will subside, but those burning eyes and scratchy throat, with a heaping helping of sneezing, remain your constant companions. Get tissue. We’ll wait.

They may say, “Yeah, but it’s a dry heat” when the temperatures top out at 105, but 105 is 105, dry or not. Coming from Florida, we understand the sopping-wet of summertime. In Arizona, we’re bewildered by what’s happening to our bodies when sweat evaporates so fast you don’t even know it was there, or it pools under your hair and rains down like a salty waterfall.

Comments from other RVers like, “Our site was next to some bushes, but we were told it’s illegal to kill the Black Widow spiders that live in them,” never leave you. Shaking out all your towels and flipping your bedsheets up so you can see under them before you get in are your new habits.

If you live in the Southwest, it’s apparently a law that you have to have an RV in your yard. Doesn’t matter if it’s a million-dollar Prevost or an abandoned hulk that’s been rusting through to its substructure ever since Hector was a pup. Ideally, it’s the latter, and even better, there should be at least two.

Wow. We’d heard about the friendships that form between RVers, we’ve had nothing but kindness from the people we’ve met, and we’ve added new friends on FB to keep up with each other’s travels. Even after all of that, we had no idea how much you care about these new friends when they’re facing a sudden challenge. There is something very special about this community. How wonderful it is to have your heart expand this way.

Filling Our Bellies And Our Hearts In Palm Springs

Simon wanted to see Palm Springs because “it has a reputation as an iconic destination, like Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, and Manhattan, and it’s right in the middle of the desert.” Plus, it has a golf course that was featured in Walt Disney World’s former Soarin’ attraction at Epcot.

Susan had been before, in what feels like another lifetime. At that time, the experience was all about wealth and what it could buy. Staying in a home in swanky Rancho Las Palmas in Rancho Mirage, enjoying the finest dining, and having a BMW to drive around in. Would the city tucked into a valley with the San Jacinto Mountains as its backdrop live up to that glittering yesteryear now that self-indulgence was no longer on the menu?

Just 36 miles from the town of Joshua Tree, Palm Springs and our two-night stay at the pet-friendly Inn at Palm Springs was an easy drive. The Inn is a comfy boutique hotel on Palm Canyon Drive, the main artery that connects the north side of town with pretty much everything.

We totally switched off, professionally, during this trip, and didn’t get a photo of the outside of the hotel. Frankly, we didn’t get a photo of a lot of things, which is probably a good sign even if it’s not very helpful for a blog.

But let’s get straight to the food. Real food. Food that makes sense, wasn’t prepared in an Instant Pot or an air fryer, and had so much flavor we almost wept with happiness and appreciation.

Having spent the day in Joshua Tree National Park, we freshened up before heading to Trio for dinner. Their outdoor seating was perfect for bringing Ruthie along, with the added benefit of being right on Palm Canyon Drive so we could enjoy the evening ambiance.

We started with a perky Cucumber Gin Fizz for Susan and vodka-based Triotini for Simon, then moved on to the Sticky Pork Riblets appetizer, light-as-air Triangoli pasta with summery veggies and parmesan cheese for Susan, succulent Scottish Salmon for Simon, and the earthy deliciousness of Japanese Eggplant with White Miso Sauce to share.
(Apologies for the dark photos; it was dim, which is romantic, and we didn’t want to disturb other diners with camera flash.)

*Sticky rib appetizer and luxurious cocktails. Like real adults would have!*

*It is a rare day when Susan orders pasta, but this light, lemony version was a worthwhile exception.*

*We could have made a meal of the Japanese Eggplant on its own. Delicious!*

After a good night’s sleep, we refilled our half-empty stomachs with breakfast at Grand Central Palm Springs, which came highly recommended. Common sense won out over greediness, and we split a Morning BLT (bacon, tomato, baby arugula, poached eggs, and avocado dressing, served open-faced on sourdough, with house potatoes) and a Chocolate Hazelnut croissant, with tea and coffee.

Our visit wasn’t just about eating (although we did a lot of eating!), so after breakfast we poodled over to the Palm Springs Air Museum, one of the city’s major non-golfing/non-eating/non-shopping attractions.

Simon loves this kind of place; Susan thought she’d be bored stiff. But, like the GE Aviation Learning Center in Evandale, Ohio, where jet engines are the stars of the show, something unforgettable happened.

This isn’t the unforgettable thing. Ruthie just loves statues. She thinks this one is trying to hand her a treat.

In Evandale, it was the cute little PR girl who said to Susan, “You’re bored, aren’t you? Well, I’m going to tell you, in just four words, something that will help you remember how every single engine works, and you’ll never forget it. Ready? Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. That’s how engines work.”*

*A representation of my reaction. I never did forget how engines work.*

The Air Museum wasn’t nearly as X-rated, but it was no less astonishing. They have an actual Stealth Bomber on display, and while aircraft and war are not Susan’s thing at all, being in its presence was hugely impressive. Discovering how something that big can be “hidden” from radar was truly fascinating.

Talking to the docents as we walked through each hanger, arranged by the wars each planes served in, made the whole experience come alive. Many of the docents are veterans, and we spent far more time at the museum than we thought we would because they were so eloquent in sharing their stories, both triumphant and heartrending.

*There was even a fabulous tribute to Walt Disney and the Disney Company’s role in WWII. It’s far more extensive than this one photo.*

All that patriotic fervor was thirsty work, so we made a stop at Shields Date Garden for sustenance. From the moment Palm Springs became a possibility for our trip, Susan had insisted Simon had to try a Date Shake. He needed no second urging, and was rewarded with a 21-ounce cup of culinary delight that starts with a subtle mocha flavor, although there is no mocha in it, then evolves into a deep, rich date flavor, with just a pleasing hint of grit from the dates’ rough skin.

Simon’s first Date Shake.
Click on photo for video

The day was hot, so a visit to the cool breezes of the Salton Sea were in order as we brought our internal temperature down with our Date Shakes. It was a 120-mile journey, round trip, but we had no real plans and it’s an iconic part of the desert experience.

Susan remembered it as a place that absolutely reeked of dead fish, but that was 40 years ago. Things change, and by this time all the inland sea’s fish were probably long gone.

That part was true. If there were any fish left, we never saw them. What we did see was desolation, and a lot of Border Patrol cars. Once upon a time, the landlocked salty sea was an oasis that drew tourists from far and wide. Now, it’s a dying lake riddled with heavy metals, agricultural toxins, pesticides, and no cooling breezes. The small communities around it are dying, too.

*Salton Sea City wasn’t looking its best.*

*Those who remain here deserve to have basic services. We wondered what had happened.*

Like Utah’s Great Salt Lake, Salton Sea is drying up. It’s a sobering reminder of what’s happening with the climate, and a warning bell that rings loudly when you’re standing shoreside.

Dinner outdoors at LuLu California Bistro that evening helped restore our mood. Simon ordered a Santa Fe Panini (the California version of a Cuban Sandwich) and Susan had the lettuce wrap appetizer, with a beer each to adjust our attitudes quickly.

*If there’s one thing that isn’t in short supply, it’s great food.*

On the way back to our hotel, we were on the lookout for Bob Hope’s house, high on a hill overlooking the city, which made a huge impression on Susan during her first visit, for it’s astounding roofline architecture that curves gracefully downward, practically covering the 24,000-square-foot residence within. (Click HERE for an insightful story—with interior photos! – about this building, describing its restoration and why its famous architect felt the original project was an “ugly, tough job.”)

We also detoured into an area called The Movie Colony, where many famous people live or lived, including Frank Sinatra, Leonardo DeCaprio, Marilyn Monroe, Cary Grant, the Kardashians, and a list of other celebrities as long as your arm.

*The houses are all low-rise and tucked away behind walls, fences, and/or high bushes. This was once Frank Sinatra’s house.*

*This is the home of an artist, and the entire yard is full of metal sculptures he’s made.*

But it was the next day’s adventure that would prove to be the ultimate highlight of a trip that had many highlights. Simon had arranged to meet up with his childhood tennis buddy, Juan Carlos, during their time living in Botswana in the 1970s. They hadn’t seen each other in 48 years, but Simon still has a photo of the two of them, taken after the 1974 Botswana Boys Singles Final, which Juan Carlos won in three sets.

And what a reunion it was. Juan Carlos was accompanied by his lovely lady, Adrianna, and over the course of two hours, lively conversation closed the gap on those 48 years. Upon parting, the two recreated Simon’s photo from long ago, and we were left with the promise of a place to stay should we find ourselves in San Diego, while they have a room waiting for them if they visit Orlando.

Did our detour into Palm Springs live up to that opulent, cash-fueled visit all those years ago? It exceeded it by far, because this time it was all about the joy of being together, the simplicity of a full belly, and the bond of friendship that lasts a lifetime. Priceless.

*For those who also wish to never forget how engines work, they Suck fuel and air in, they Squeeze it down tight, it creates a big Bang as it burns, and finally it will Blow exhaust out. You’re welcome!

A Year On The Road: The 4-Month Map

Highlighting our fourth month on the road and the route so far – all 5,929 miles of it

After three months of fairly hectic traveling, our four-month mark shows that we have come the shortest distance for any month of the grand RV trip to date, from Wheatland in Wyoming to Fillmore in Utah (via what looks like a strange detour to Declo in Idaho, but which was the best way to see some of Idaho without putting too many miles on our RV).

Our mileage for Month Four was therefore just 868 miles, compared to 1,318 last month, 1,239 in Month Two and a whirlwind 2,504 in the opening month.

The total distance in Indefatigable (or Fati for short) since we left Orlando is now 5,929 miles.

The slower pace has been deliberate, of course. We realized that we were trying to pack too much in to this crazy 10-wheeled adventure and we have purposely changed both our itinerary and our pace of travel to avoid the mental and physical breakdowns we experienced in the first two months.

The key has been to identify an area that allows us to explore in multiple directions for a week or so, and then use our tow car, Nippy, to do more of the exploration.

To that end, we have actually gone an additional 9,621 miles in Nippy in those four months, almost 3,000 of them in the past month alone. That total includes a spur-of-the-moment trip into Canada from Montana, our overnight excursion to Rocky Mountain State Park in Colorado and an extensive day trip to the Flaming Gorge in Utah, both from Wyoming.

Our total mileage for the trip so far is therefore a whopping 15,550, or 3,887.5 a month!

The next month could see us top that record for Nippy, too, as we plan on basing ourselves in southern Nevada for trips into Southern California. As ever, this is an – ahem – moveable feast, but you can be sure to read all about it here!

How We Live Comfortably In A 36-Foot Space

We’re used to living and working together 24/7, but being in a tiny space all the time isn’t the same as being in a house with several rooms. So how do we live, work, and organize a space that compresses down to a single aisle with just a bedroom, bathroom, and living area? Here’s how.

Admittedly, our 36-foot Class A motorhome is massive compared to some rigs (the smallest one we’ve seen being literally just a mattress on the inside and a tiny covered shelf with a sink on the outside), but it’s not all that big compared to the really big rigs.

*We were so blissfully ignorant at the start of this journey!*

Naturally, with space at such a premium, we have to be incredibly organized. Our living area breaks down to the “basement,” the cab, the galley, the bathroom/shower, and the bedroom. Everything has a place, and everything has to be in its place or we’d have total chaos. Let’s take a tour, starting with the basement.

The long squares at the bottom of the rig are the “basement” (bays). They’re on both sides of the rig. The bumped-out part is a slide-out, and there are two more slide-outs on the other side. The square, white thing on a stand on the grass is our Starlink internet, and the folded-up black thing under the bay is Ruthie’s ramp to get in the rig. You can’t see the rig’s tires because they have tire covers on them to help avoid aging and cracking from the sun.

Along with opposing slide-outs that make our galley/living room seem like a ballroom, one of the features of our Winnebago Sightseer that really attracted us to it was the storage space under the rig. As we’ve traveled, each “bay” became organized according to a specific use.

First, we have a bay filled with the stuff we use in a campground. Ruthie’s ramp and tie-outs (plus anything of hers we store) goes in it, along with our outdoor mat, shoe mat, chairs, folding tables, tire covers, and miscellaneous stuff. A small bay to the right of this one has two boxes with mechanical stuff that helps power our electricity.

The shelf with the peach-colored fold-up tables goes all the way through to the bay on the other side, giving us lots of extra storage space. Two of our bays have this feature. The white cube you see here is for extra water when we boondock (camp with no water or electric hookups).

The second bay holds Ruthie’s big food container, a small shelf, and some mechanics for the rig. We fill a smaller container from this one, which we keep inside the rig so we don’t have to open the big one twice a day.

Next is a small bay with our inverter, some extra rolls of paper towel (which we use a LOT, including to wipe the dishes before we wash them so the least amount of fat or food goes into our gray tank and causes smells), and the router for our Starlink internet system.

The propane tank has its own bay. Above the propane tank and end bay is our outdoor entertainment system (TV and radio). We’ve used it exactly twice so far, since we’re generally out touring or inside working.

And finally, the rear bay on this side has our emergency stuff (cones and LED flares in case of a breakdown, plus a foam fire retardant), jack pads, pool noodles that go on the slide-out edges to save our noggins when the inevitable bumps happen, the box we store Starlink in, and “extras” of things like toilet paper, tissue, soap, and such.

On the other side of the rig we have a bay with our fresh water hose, plus extras items such as shampoo, first aid stuff, laundry detergent and other necessities that need replacing fairly often, plus our broom and Swiffer.

*The shelf with the two yellow bags holding our outdoor folding chairs is a shelf that “passes through” from the other side.*

Then comes the icky bay, which holds cleaning and maintenance supplies, a tool box, our sewer hose, and the black tank flushing hose.

*Hoses are “color coded.” Orange means “yuck water!” and white, blue, or green mean “fresh water!”*

The “wet bay” is where all our electric/water/sewer hookups are located, and the place where the black tank and gray tank dump from. We also have an “outdoor shower,” (really just a hose with a shower head) which we have yet to use. A good place for washing muddy boots and stinky dogs, probably.

This shows our fresh-water hose with filter and our sewer hooked up, and the black cord in the bottom right of the photo is our 50-amp power cord. The metal things on wooden block are our jacks, which help keep the rig level and steady (sort of).

Heading inside, the door leads to the galley. This is our main living space and our kitchen.

Dishes, pots and pans, dish cloths and towels, silverware, and cooking utensils live in the drawers, while non-perishable foods live in the cupboards. The small Instant Pot, Air Fryer, and electric kettle live on the counter, with non-slip pads under them so they don’t slide when we’re in transit.

There is a big space (relatively speaking) under the sink that holds cleaning supplies, a baking sheet, a dish-drying pad and rack, garbage can liners, our UV water filtration system, and the ever-important bottle of gin. Cutting boards hang next to it.

Across the aisle from the sink is the refrigerator and freezer, with our carbon monoxide detector below it.

We’re getting close to moving to a new location, so the fridge mainly has water, bread, and cheese in it as we use things up! That little white box on the upper shelf is a mini fan that keeps the fridge marginally cooler while we’re in transit.

To the right of the kitchen is the living space. Our U-shaped couch (which folds down to make a queen-sized bed) and a drop-leaf table serve as our dining area and our work space. The table has storage in it, which we use for the little fan we bought to help keep the air moving on hot afternoons when the A/C could use a little help.

Above the sofa is storage space for games we play when we’re dry camping (no water, electric, or sewer hookups) and don’t have TV reception; table cloths, placemats, and paper plates for dry camping; Ruthie’s medications; and RV books, plus miscellaneous small tools and other items, such as markers and face masks.

Normally this area is well-lit, but when I took this photo we were packing up to move. The two sofa backs on the left side live here when they’re not in use, and the two “arms” of the sofa they normally live on fold into the sofa so the slide can go in.

A fireplace under the TV warms this space beautifully on cool mornings and evenings. We’ve used it far more than we thought we might. The cupboard to the left of the fireplace is our “bar,” with wine, wine glasses, whatever Simon is drinking at any given time, and some miscellaneous stuff. It sounds more exciting than it is.

Ruthie’s bed is here, too, in a space that had a reclining chair (which we removed before we left home) and the table folds down and stores next to her while we’re in motion.

*This is our fireplace in action, before we took the reclining chair out.*

The cab is where all our technology and maps live, including an RV GPS, Tire Pressure Monitoring System, DVD player, and things like a high-beam flashlight and our high-visibility vests for roadside emergencies.

*Here we have the shade down to keep the heat that radiates through the rig’s front window to a minimum.*

The passenger side of the cab has a space where we keep vital info such as campground membership forms, Ruthie’s vaccination records, and other things campground hosts might want to see, plus a book in which we record each campground location and details, and a book in which we record milage each time we move, the time of day we left the campground, and other boring details.

Above the cab is our “guest room,” which is really just a pull-down bed. Before we left home, we removed the thin mattress and now use that area for winter clothes and heavy bedding storage.

*The thin white box above the seats is the fold-down bed. It’s bigger than it looks, but you still don’t want to be a “guest” that has to sleep on it..*

To the left of the galley is our bathroom. The shower is on the left-hand side of the aisle (and it doubles as a drying area on laundry day, when we don’t want to take the time to dry things in the washer/dryer, or heat up the bedroom with dryer mode) and on the right-hand side, behind a door, is the toilet, sink, cupboard, and drawers.

Long, thin containers hold our toothbrushes, toothpaste, and other daily necessities. Each of our containers lives on the countertop while we’re in camp, then they go into the cupboard above and to the left of the sink when we’re in transit. Three drawers hold things like hairbrushes, powder, first-aid stuff, and the like. Toilet paper, Happy Camper black tank treatment, and cleaning supplies live under the sink.

To the left of the bathroom is our “command center,” with monitors for our tanks, buttons to turn our generator and hot water heater on and off, a monitor that shows what power source we’re using (campground “shore” power, generator, or house batteries) and a monitor that shows the health of our house batteries. At the top are buttons that bring the slides in and out.

Next comes the bedroom. Our King bed is on a motorized base, so it “folds up” (to a degree) when we’re in transit and the slide-out is in, and folds down when we’re at a campground.

We each have drawers and half of the closet space for clothes, shoes, etc. There is an A/C in the ceiling here, too (a second A/C is in the living space).

The far corner is where our combo washer/dryer lives, along with a duster, laundry soap and fabric softener, a short step-stool, and the like. We don’t make the most of this cupboard, but we probably should.

Above the bed is more storage, but at the moment it only has things like extra towels and sheets, and a massive bag of tea bags given to us by dear friends in the U.K.

So that’s our house on wheels! And it really does feel homey when we’re settled in for the evening, watching some TV, having a drink, and eating whatever gets thrown together and called a meal.

We were very conservative when we loaded the RV, and the weigh station we stopped at in Florida showed we were 2,000 pounds under our maximum allowable weight. We like to keep it that way, for better gas milage and easier mountain driving.

Oh…and Mickey and Minnie sit on one corner of the sofa, to remind us of home.